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Whenever compiling a list of London’s best dining spots, one might anticipate familiar award-winning names. However, tucked near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a distant corner of north London.

A Unexpected Honour

This small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. The recognition has made the family utterly shocked.

“I’m utterly surprised,” states the owner’s son, pointing to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their modest restaurant securing such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its earlier character. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it is all about the food, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent quality.

It is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

A Creed of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at fancy establishments. “I feel truly happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning beyond its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this culinary achievement.